Hertford - A Pub for Every Reason

Les Middlewood describes a selection of pubs in Hertford.

Hertford, our County town (pop. 25,000), has a pub landscape that has evolved over 700 years, often re-inventing itself to match social, economic and political changes. By the late 1880s pub numbers had swollen to 87 (some pub crawl that) and were largely in the hands of local brewers. McMullens were one of these and whilst their new brewery is hidden away, their former Victorian brewery still keeps watch over the town. Today Hertford has 28 pubs and bars.

Much can be written about the Hertford pub scene and how it has changed over the last 100 years but today's pubs are a mix of historic stalwart survivors, social meeting places, Sport-on-TV, food specialists, live music venues, new-style bars and real ale specialists.

Come over to Hertford and sample some of its pubs.

1. Old Cross Tavern, St.Andrews St.

Hertford`s home-brew free house was created in 1999 out of a former antiques shop. As well as its own brews, in addition there are always offering six top-condition ales from far and wide. The pub slogan is "The way pubs used to be". No music, TV or gaming machines here – just great ale and good conversation. Beer festivals are held in the flower-bedecked patio at the rear in May and (sometimes) October. No wonder the pub has been the recipient of recent local CAMRA branch awards and is a regular entry in the Good Beer Guide. Open all day (except Monday – open at 4pm). Public car park opposite.

Old Cross Tavern, St.Andrews St.

2. White Horse, Castle Street

Operating as a Fuller's Free House, the full range of Fuller's beers is available plus three other interesting and well-kept beers from small independent brewers. Again, no music or machines and only occasional TV for rugby internationals. This tiny former beerhouse has grown from one bar to two plus meeting and bar billiards rooms upstairs, yet somehow it feels as if it was always like this. Another deserved regular in the GBG, there are tasty lunchtime and evening meals. Closes during the afternoon but open all day Friday to Sunday. Street parking.

White Horse, Castle Street

3. Black Horse, West Street

This timbered pub became a free house in 2011 and has a country feel about it yet sits happily amid the picturesque buildings of West Street. Two Greene King beers have been retained but the other handpumps feature beers from elsewhere. Homemade food is available at lunchtimes and during the evenings. Near Hertford Town Football Club, it is more famous for its RFU-affiliated pub rugby team – probably the only one in the land. Open all day. There's some good records on the pub juke-box and for a town centre pub it's rare to find such a pleasant pub garden.

Black Horse, West Street

4. Salisbury Arms, Fore Street.

Perhaps Hertford's most written-about and photographed pub with a history stretching back to at least 1431 when it was known as the Bell. Listed, the pub displays many superb architectural features and maintains a County-town feel about it. Famous guests have included Oliver Cromwell and Thomas Fairfax - on their way to diffuse the Ware Mutiny in 1647. The hotel was bought by McMullens in 1891 and sells the full range of Mac's real ales including their seasonal brews and guest ales. Fine food is available in the bars and restaurants all day from Monday to Sunday. Car park in Bell Lane.

Salisbury Arms, Fore Street.

5. Old Barge, The Folly

Riverside on the Lea Navigation, moor your narrowboat outside. An enterprising free house with 7or 8 real ales, of which 4 are guests, the Barge is situated just over the bridge at the entrance to Folly Island with its homely lines of 19th century cottages. The pub has gained a reputation for its fortnightly jazz evenings held on Thursdays and its well-attended Quizzes held on Sundays. Rugby internationals are shown on TV. No food weekend evenings. Open all day. Small car park – otherwise use Bircherley Court Public car park and walk across bridge.

A famous former landlord at the Barge was Harry Curtis Garner who at one time held all national walking records between 1 and 30 miles. In 1891, in New York, he established a new World Record for the ¼ mile – at 1 minute 23 seconds.

Old Barge, The Folly

6. Great Eastern, Railway Place

A two-bar Victorian "local" owned by McMullens and left stranded when Hertford East station was relocated 250 yards nearer to the town late in the 19th Century. AK and Cask Ale are available in this pub where conversation, banter and laughter are the name of the game – TV sport often helping the process along. A great selection of guitar-based blues and rock tracks often to be heard in the evenings. Sandwiches on request and hot food Fridays and Saturdays until 6pm. Open all day. Pub car park.

Great Eastern, Railway Place

7. Baroosh, Fore Street

McMullens' successful venture into the world of new-style bars started here and what a success – Baroosh being popular at all times, no more so than on Friday and Saturdays. The pub was fashioned out of a former bank in 2000 and its winning formula has been extended to other towns in the South-East. Country Bitter and Cask Ale are available. Accessible for wheelchair users throughout. There's a smoking area to the rear and small outside patio. Baroosh opens for breakfasts at 9.30am and offers an interesting menu well into the evenings. An over-21 policy applies. Large public car park off Gascoyne Way.

Baroosh, Fore Street
Hertford map

Directions.

Hertford town centre is a ten minute walk from Hertford North station (connecting to Stevenage and Finsbury Park, Moorgate and King's Cross) or two minute walk from Hertford East Station (connecting to Liverpool Street and to Broxbourne for journeys on to Bishop's Stortford and Cambridge).

The 724 Greenline bus connects Hertford to Harlow, Hatfield, Welwyn Garden City, St.Albans and Watford. The 310 bus travels up the Lee Valley through Waltham Cross, Cheshunt, Hoddesdon and Ware.

By road, Hertford is on the A414, just off the A10 or 8 miles from the A1M


Les Middlewood October 2011


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© South Herts CAMRA Branch & Tony Dawes
16 October, 2011
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